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Wholesale or Retail?When buying Leather on-line, What should I be looking for?Buying on-line can be scary because you can't Try it on... Make sure the company has an "Unconditional Return Policy". You should be able to return it for any reason from "Wrong Size" to "It Just isn't What I Wanted" PBEvolution offers Replacement OR Refund..YOUR CHOICE ALWAYS Make sure there's a legitimate credit card processor logo. So, Is it REALLY A Wholesale Price? Is there a picture of their business on the website anywhere? Does it look like a Wholesale Warehouse or a Store? If there is a giant sign out front.. You guessed it!.. Its a store. Stores sell at retail And, Make sure they're not selling you Lambskin, Pigskin, Suede or Split Leather. Only Buffalo or Cowhide are going to protect you if you are buying for motorcycle Apparel. Be a Leather AuthorityAll there is to know..."Naked Leather" simply means Unblemished. There is no scars or uneven grain in the garment Split grain is any leather that is not from the actual outside layer of a cow's hide - better known as suede. It is more flexible than top grain leather.It is not as durable, or waterproof as top-grain. Top,full grain leather is from the smooth outside layer of a cow's hide. It is more durable and stiffer than split grain, and fares well against water and abrasions. Just like for the cow.. Leather adjusts to the temperature to keep you warm in winter, and still cool for spring and fall making IT the perfect garment material. When choosing your full grain leather, keep in mind the types of conditioning... Oil-tanned Leather is breathable, but the leather can wear down and become less durable over time without periodic Mink oil (or other oil-based) conditioning (pbevolution Jackets,Chaps, vests) Silicone tanned leather is more resistant to water, but is stiffer and takes longer to break in. Used in those new "pbevolution" boots you're looking to buy!! There are 4 basic kinds of waterproofing methods for Leather Oil Based: Oil Based compounds soften leather making it more plyable and, more rip proof. Wax Based: Wax-based products are quite functional in waterproofing riding boots, provided the wax is reapplied regularly. Be sure to buff the boots after applying to get rid of the excess- it can attract dirt and grime. The main drawback is that wax based waterproofers cut down on the breathablity of the boot. Your feet don't get as much air when perspiring, and once the boots are wet, they take longer to dry.(not recommended for jackets,Vests etc) Silicone Based: Stitching and glue can break down under the high petroleum content of silicone products. Your leather will also give off fumes while drying. Silicone products stiffen the leather when exposed to low temperatures, and they do not aid in conditioning the leather. Silicone is recommended as opposed to wax based products for boots with a Gore-Tex liner, because it is more breathable. Water Based:Fluoropolymer: This type of waterproofing comes in a spray can, and has been rated the best by leading authorities on the subject. It can be used on leather that have been previously treated by a different method. It dries quickly, repels stains, and does not change the appearance of most leather but, does not condition the leather (test treat an inconspicuous area first if concerned about staining) There is also a simple "waterproof rule" to follow when buying leather... Look for garments with as few seams as possible. Stitched seams become weak spots as the materials degrade, inviting leaks. Leather CareLeather ages gracefully and can last a lifetime with proper care right from the start.* NUMBER ONE! Rub Mink oil (available everywhere in shoe care department) into garment ONCE if not TWICE a year. This keeps the leather from drying out and cracking (just like your skin, if it is dry, it cracks and splits)the cow is no longer there to produce the oils. * Always hang leather garments on wide or padded hangers to maintain their shape. * Use shoetrees in footwear and stuff empty handbags with tissue to help retain their shape. * Never store leather goods in plastic or other non-breathable covers. This will cause leather to become dry. * Allow wet or damp leather to air-dry naturally away from any heat source. * Leather can be treated with a conditioner (mink oil) to restore flexibility while suede can be brushed with a terry towel to restore its look. * In winter, promptly remove salt deposits from garments and footwear by sponging with clear water, then follow with the above treatment for wet or damp leather. * Avoid very humid and dry environments as well as direct sunlight. * Do not use waxes, silicone products or other leather preparations that impair a garment's ability to breathe. * Wrinkles should hang out. If ironing is desired, set iron on rayon setting, use heavy brown wrapping paper as a pressing cloth on right side of the garment and a quick hand to prevent overheating and shine. * Avoid spraying perfumes or hair sprays while wearing your garment and do not apply pins, adhesive badges or tape. * Hems may be fixed with a tiny amount of rubber cement. For best results see a leather care professional. * All products designed to be used at home should be tested on an inconspicuous part of the garment. Links to Helpful Tips; the motorcycle history -------------------------------------------------- ; the harley davidson history -------------------------------------------------- motorcycle counter steering -------------------------------------------------- The best advices on how to choose your helmet -------------------------------------------------- |
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